An American in Sologne

Following the trail of François Premier in Sologne, Loire Valley

  
^{The Prince of the Renaissance}

 François Premier, why I am so fascinated by him, can’t tell you. He was good, bad, handsome, ugly…. what do you want me to say.  I LOVE HIM.  If he was alive I might even agree to marry him although I can’t bring a dowry and I am no longer of childbearing age, but if he would have me I would say YES!

He was born into an era that was awakening otherwise known as the Renaissance.  The Spanish and Portuguese expeditions were discovering the unknown lands of Africa, Asia and the New World. Luther and Calvin were reforming the known religions.  The 100 years war was over, there was peace.

 His 32-year reign has left an indelible mark not only in France; but did you also know that it was in the service of François Premier that the Florentine navigator, Verrazano, was sent to explore the U.S. Atlantic coast?

The world’s longest suspension bridge connecting Staten Island to Brooklyn carries his name.

When you realise that that we are talking about from 1515 to 1547, this guy really moved his butt around the world!

 

^{There is an excellent web site which follows François Premier’s influence in France and further.  www.routesfrancois1.com .} 

 

^{And, while his legacy} is felt around the world, it is in France and, above all, here in Sologne and Loire Valley that he is still alive and quite well!

Chambord is the most grandiose of his legacy but since I have already

 

I don’t think they have something bigger than this even in Texas!

talked about Chambord in my October 17^th article it is “les petits chateaux” (the little castles) influenced by François Premier for today.

 

 

Chateau de Talcy

Rendered famous by Ronsard’s  “Mignonne, allons vor si la rose…” (My lovely, let us go see if the rose…) which was dedicated to Cassandre, daughter of the rich Florentine banker, Bernard Salviati, financier to François Premier and owner of the chateau.  Talcy offers a clear perspective on the transition from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance.   www.chateauxcountry.com  

 

 

 

      Manoir de Clos Lucé

Built in 1471 Charles VII acquired it not long after and for 200 years Clos Lucé became a summer Royal house and is where Louise de Savoy raised two of her children, Marguerite and François.  And it is where François Premier brought Leonardo di Vinci in 1516 to live in the French court.  It is here at Clos Lucé that Leonardo di Vinci only three years later.  But not before he had designed the plans that would become Chambord. www.vinci-closluce.com

 

 

 

 

           Beauregard     

Before Chambord,  Beauregard was François Premier’s hunting lodge who then sold it to his uncle the bastard from Savoie. Under Jean du Their’s direction the chateau was embellished in the Renaissance style.  In the 18^th century Paul Ardier, the then owner, would create the noted “Celebrities Gallery”. Consisting of 327 portraits from 1328 to 1643 this unique collection is a veritable chronicle of Europe’s history during this period. Kings as well as ministers, men of war, religious men, bankers, explorers and other important personalities look down on you in this impressive gallery.  www.beauregard-loire.com

 

 

 

 

Chateau de Troussay

Although the smallest jewel of the Loire Valley Troussay’s superb collection of furniture and elegant gardens make it a favourite among François Premier’s fans. The Renaissance style of this mansion was typical of the period, built not by royalty but the squires (as in this case), financiers and other people important to François Premier. www.routesfrancois1.com 

 

 

 

   
   Chateau de Fougères-sur-bièvre

The Renaissance arcade gallery of this chateau was the last phase of construction for this tiny fortress and was completed by Jean de Villebresme, chamberlain to the brother of François Premier. It is an interesting example of three different architectural styles each steeped in local tradition. http://fougeres-sur-bievre.monuments-nationaux.fr

 

 

   
Chateau de Gué-Péan

The furthest from our B&B (1 hour) this imposing castle is snugly tucked into the woods and fields overlooking the Cher River. The reconstruction of the chateau was started early in the 15^th century by an Italian family, the Alamans.  It was Nicolas Alaman, a squire in François Premier’s service who extended the buildings deeply influenced by the Renaissance.  Privately owned, this lovingly furnished gem is well worth a visit.

http://www.monthousurcher.fr

 

And don’t forget our B&B, Saint Jacques El Coin Peru is an easy reach to all.

 

 

Kristie Anderson

Saint Jacques Le Coin Perdu

15 places de l’église

45240 Ligny le Ribault

www.TheAmericanFrog.com

French Bog: http://TheAmericanFrog.typepad.fr/lecoinperdu

Auld Alliance Lunch October 25, 2009

 

Auld Alliance Lunch 25 october  

 

 

 

Yes, the Scottish came, one real, and fourteen “de coeur” (heartfelt Scots). They are members of the Orleans association “Auld Alliance” association.

 

"L'Auld Alliance n'a pas été écrite sur un parchemin de peau de brebis mais gravée sur la peau d'homme, tracée non par l'encre mais par le sang" - Alain Chartier XVème Siècle ."

 

The « Auld Alliance » hasn’t been written on sheep skin parchment but ingraved on Man’s skin  not with ink but with blood” Alain Chartier XVth Century.

 

This “Alliance” is still going strong today;  all over France the French continue to honor and celebrate their centuries old friendship with the Scotts.

 

 

This is the second year that the Orleans “Auld Alliance 45” has come to the “Coin Perdu” (lost corner but also the name of my bar) to enjoy an authentic Scottish lunch. And, they come dressed for the occasion.   


  So did I.

 

 

 

 Luckily for me they did not ask for Haggis.  I would have made it with pleasure but it is not one of my favorite

dishes.  Here is what I did serve

 

 

 

Scottish Kir

White wine, sparkling wine and a good dash of Drambouie

 

Starter

 

Colcannon or Rumbledethumps with smoked salmon

Here I took Chef’s  Privilege and added smoked salmon to the traditional mixture of cooked cabbage and mashed potatoes.  To give the cabbage extra flavour, rather than boil it I braised the cabbage in a meat broth.

 

Entre

 

Roasted Boar,

It is the center of hunting for the French here in Sologne, Loire Valley.  I roast mine with a blend of mesquite and hickory smoked flavors.

 

Cauliflower au Gratin

It definitely becomes Scottish when you add a bit of whiskey to the cheddar cheese sauce!

 

Cheese

 

What else but cheddar!!

 

Dessert

Drunken Crumble

Why not add a bit of Drambouie to a traditional apple crumble and see what happens. Magic!

 

They said it was even better than last year.  (Of course last year I hadn’t yet discoovered the Scottish Kir nor the Drunken Crumble!  It sure looks they enjoyed it!       

 
       

 

 

So did my Great Grandmother Mack 
 who had definite french origins and who married Charles Mack of Scottish roots!!  I am getting excited because Dennis Mack, a cousin who I haven’t seen in ages will be visiting just after Christmas and who will be coming with the family history!

 

 

And, don’t forget our Thanksgtiving week end is coming up 27, 28, 29 November.

 

Kristi Anderson

Saint Jacques Le Coin Perdu

Bed and Breakfast

Hosted Dinners

15, place de l’église

45240 Ligny le Ribault

02.38.45.41.54/ 06.83.18.42.31

www.TheAmericanFrog.com

French Blog :  http://TheAmericanFrog.typepad.fr/lecoinperdu

 

 

 

The Scottish are coming....well, the French dressed up

Can't talk today I have 15 French people dressed up as Scots coming tomorrow for lunch!  Some I am cooking all day today. Don't worry I will take lots of pictures.  They came last year and it was lovely to see them out kilted out!  I'll be giving the menu tomorrow also.

 

So mark it on your calendars!

October 24 & 25 in Sologne and Loire Valley

Week end  24/25 october

Journées Gastronomique de Sologne – 24/25 october – Romorantin (1/2 hour from our B&B) The 32^nd Annual Gastronomy Fair.  We’re talking food!  This year Spain in honoured. All those delicious Spanish hams and cheeses!

But don’t worry products from our Sologne and Loire Valley areas will be well represented. Go very hungary! www.romorantin.fr/jgs

Balade Nocturne Saturday 24 October 18h – Chaon - Maison du Braconnage. 
This two hour evening walk finishes at 20h30 at the « Poacher’s Museum » where a hearty country buffet is awaiting. Songs and folktales by the group Topette des Guernazelles au Vent jaun.  www.ballades-en-sologne.com 

Ouverture des Ateliers d’Artistes en Sologne Saturday and Sunday 24/25 October – all over Sologne.    This week end the artists here in  Sologne will be opening their ateliers to the public. Info:  laas.art.free.fr or 06.80.50.03.72

Still Sick...Still Writing

 
  
Still Sick….Still Writing

 

My computer is still sick, slow and keeps shutting down.  No wonder I am having Writer’s Block!  But I am plugging away because I know you have been drooling since my lunch at La Devantière. 

 

In a renovated farm house, La Devantière is cosy, full of warmth and great food!  Here are a few photos:

   
   And, now, the food!  La Davantière adds a touch of "new" to the traditional French cuisine such as using raspberry vinagar for their "Cuisse de canard au pot" and adding "chèvre frais du Ciran" to their oyster mushrooms. 

 

 We both chose the menu at 27€ which included either a starter, entre, fromage or dessert.  For just 3€ more you have a grand choice of fromages and dessert. For starters Laurent took the "oeufs cocotte au fois gras maison" which was excellent (yes, of course, I took a bite).  A perfectly baked egg in a cream sauce with just the right amount of homemade "foie gras" and a hint of herbs.  I have tried this at home but it wasn't quite the same.

 

I love mushrooms and it is the season so the "Cassolette de pleurotes au chèvre frais du Ciran" had my name on it.  What a delightful combinaison and one that I would not have thought of. The goat cheese comes from the Domaine du Ciran, a nature reserve just 15kms from our B&B.

 

"Rognons du veau à la moutarde" has always been Laurent's perfered dish so that was a given.  In his opinion the best in Sologne, (and believe me he has  tasted all the kidneys in Sologne and Loire Valley!)  While I am not a great fan of "abats" (organ meats)  I did try the mustard sauce, dunking my bread into it,(saucer)  loved it.

 

I chose the "Souris d'agneau confite au Banyuls".  I am drooling just remembering.  Tender, tender, tender in rich creamy red wine sauce, oh, so good!

 

We skipped the cheese plate but if you do take it some of our locals are: Olivet Cendrée, Valançay, and Selles-sur-Cher. They also had a "poire rôtie à la fourme d'Ambert" which was mighty tempting. Nex time I will have to forgo the dessert and take the roasted pear with cheese instead.

 

I have always been a sucker for French Toast, and, while we served it at home for breakfast why not as a dessert?  Served in a luscious caramel sauce and topped with homemade caramel ice cream I was in heaven.

 

It was the house dessert for Laurent,  the"Croquant Davantière tuiles maison, glace au calisson d'Aix et son coulis".  The "tuiles de maison " (large, thin almond cookies) were crispy fresh served with a nogat ice cream in a honey fruit sauce. It was delicious but a dessert I would prefer to have on a hot summer's day.

La Devantière

 

La Devantière

Domaine de Beauvais

45240 La Ferte St Aubin

02.38.76.57.46

[email protected]

 

 

 

 

 

 

My computer is sick

I have to apologize for yesterday’s blog.  I don’t care what my brother says, it wasn’t my fault!  The computer just didn’t want to work.  I couldn’t upload my photos, I couldn’t even find them!!  How do you lose photos and documents with a mere touch of a bouton!!

 

And it is worth it to see Guy’s photo, the village character; now here is a guy who knows a toadstool from a mushroom!!

 

 

 

Got out again today here in the Sologne, Loire Valley. “Quelle joie” (what joy!) Haven’t been eating out lately and they change so often I thought I should.  I choose La Davantiere
a charming restaurant in the next village over from us (La Ferté Saint Aubin, about 12 kms). A renovated farm house, La Davantiere is warm and cosy, beams, bricks and fireplace!  And great food!  

 

I still  having problems with my computer today so I am gong to publish this and continue when I can. 

 

Don't forget about our B&B here in Solgne, Loire Valley

Kristi Anderson

Saint Jacques

15 place de l'église

45240 Ligny le Ribault

www.TheAmericanFrog.com

French Blog:  http://lecoinperdu

[email protected]

 

    

 

Just another Sunday.......

Today which just another reason why I choose to live in france. It was a typically gorgeous Autumn day so I was delighted when some friends invited me to accompany them on a hunt.  Armed with a camera here is what I shot.

Into the forest we go…..

         Crossing bridges on our way

Eating the last of  Summer’s raspberries

 

Not touching the oh-so-lovely toadstools!

      We were able to pick just enough bolets for an omelette

We looked up…..   

 

 

.....and we looked down...

 
 
 

On country roads

  Through cornfields

(I took some home for Bunny, our rabbit)

  ….along tree lined paths

with our faithful friends

Some preferred to play with a tree

we learned about mushrooms from Guy, our local botanist

CHAMBORD

Chambord,
the prince of French renaissance is located just 20 minutes from our B&B.  Probably the most famous of the Loire Valley chateaux, Chambord was built by François Premier and, when all was said and done, François Premier spent no more (when you combine his visits) than six months there! 

The young king wanted to celebrate his power, his kingdom, and his ideas. With this in mind, in 1516 François Premier invited Leonard di Vinci 
to come and live at his court in Amboise. While di Vinci was to live a scant three years longer, he drew up the plans for Chambord.  And, after his death in 1519 (he is buried in the Clos de Luce just next to Amboise), the king named François de Pontbriant superintendent of the construction of Chambord, and work began that same year.

The work continued into the 1560’s, with such fervour that, at one point, François Premier wanted to divert the Loire to pass by the chateau, he diverted the Cosson instead. Et, voila, a photo of the same Cosson as it gently flows.

by our B&B! That is how close Chambord is!

After François Premier’s death, Chambord would be bestowed on notables such as Stanislas Leczinski, the deposed king of Poland and the Marshal of Saxony who would die there on November 30, 1750.  Left abandoned the revolutionists confiscated the rest of the private property. Marshal Saxe’s legacy is the superb stables where today one can experience an equestrian show in period costume.

Napoleon then made a gift of it to his faithful Berthier, Prince of Wagram. At this point until it’s sale to the state in 1930 Chambord was sadly neglected.

 

 

Chambord Today

 

Since 1948 Chambord’s Park has been a National “Cynegenic” Park.  It is the largest enclosed forest park in Europe – with over 5,000 hectares (13,000 acres), planted with native oak and pine, but also includes "exotic" varieties, such as chestnut, birch, elm and willow.

A 19-mile wall, the longest in France, encompasses it.

During the “brame” (Stag’s Song) visitors are accompanied by a forest guide to see and hear the stags from the numerous “miradors” (high stands).

The chateau itself is the stellar example of the Italian Renaissance influence, with such features as:

-the use of coffered vaulted ceilings such as in the St. Paul’s Cathedral in Rome

 was employed for the first time in France.

-the “double spiral” stairway
(parallel stairways ascend in such a way that two people can go up and down them without ever meeting) was most likely designed by Leonardo da Vinci. It is the most remarkable feature of the castle.

- the terrace is inspired directly from Italy, it provides a unique sight: lanterns, gables, dormer windows, 800 columns and 365 chimneys, spires and pinnacles intermingled together. I love going up and just looking at the comings and goings of all people below.  I didn’t realise that that was a favourite pastime of the King.    And, no wonder,
with all the nooks and crannies that lend themselves to secrets and intrigues,

that the court spent an immeasurable amount of time looking down from above!

Useful sites

www.chambord.org

http://www.37-online.net/gb/castles/chambord_gb.php

http://en.wikipedia.org

 

 

While you’re visiting Chambord don’t forget Cherveny with its notable collection of furniture and the wineries such as Cour-Cherveny’s Domaine de Huards.  And, above all, don’t forget to stay with us!

 

 

 

Kristi Anderson

Saint Jacques le coin perdu   

Bed & Breakfast

Dinner

15 place de l’église

45240 Ligny le Ribault

02.38.45.41.54

[email protected]

www.TheAmericanFrog.com

French blog:  http://TheAmericanFrog.typepad.fr/lecoinperdu

One last word for Thanksgiving in the Sologne Loire Valley

 I promise this will be my "final word" on Thanksgiving for this year.  But I do need to plug my B&B sometimes.

 

   

I have been celebrating Thanksgiving here in Sologne Loire Valley at my Bed & Breakfast since 2003.  But it isn’t just Americans who come to celebrate it with me.  The first year as I started to organise it, searching for a farm fresh turkey, cranberries, ((I bring back from the States each year 2 or 3 cans of Libby's), the locals started asking what really was Thanksgiving soooo…I now do two Thanksgivings.

 

The first is on the traditional Thursday and it is mostly the locals and one or two Americans from the area.  Each year shows the faithful
but we always have some for whom it their first Thanksgiving ever. Soooo I dress up (I promise to take photos this year of me!) as a Indian and I tell the story and explain the meanings.  The first year I decided to do some checking up on what I took to be the gospel truth and in turn learned there is no gospel truth about Thanksgiving.  No one can even agree on which Indian tribe!  I did love learning about how the Indians buried a dead fish as fertiliser then a kernel of corn and a green bean that would then use the corn stalk as support.  Now I know what to do with those goldfish! 

 

The second is on the Saturday after and it is not just Americans that come,
it is also, Americans with their non-American spouse and others who know and appreciate Thanksgiving. It is a week end of warmth laughter and good old turkey!
And, Laurent loved learning how to carve a turkey.

 

 

 

Thanksgiving in the French Countryside    November 27, 28, 29 2009

The sixth annual Thanksgiving at our Bed and Breakfast in Sologne.  Just 90 minutes south of Paris, 15 minutes from Chambord,  golf course and wineries.

Arrive Friday evening and enjoy a typical French game dinner. After breakfast Saturday feel free to explore our corner of the world or just curl up by the fire.  But be back at 7pm for our traditional Thanksgiving dinner.

 Breakfast Sunday is at your leisure as is your day.  If the weather permits take our bikes and discover the forest that is at our doorstep or look for that treasure in one of the numerous flea markets

Prices start at 185euros for the weekend.

For further information about Thanksgiving in France: Kristi Anderson 06.83.18.42.31

. And, don’t forget to check out my blog for what is happening in Sologne Loire Valley.

 http://TheAmericanFrog.typepad.fr/an_american_in_sologne 

 

 

Kristi Anderson

Saint Jacques – Le Coin Perdu

15, place de l’église

45240 Ligny le Ribault

[email protected] www.TheAmericanFrog.com

French blog : http://TheAmericanFrog.typepad.fr/lecoinperdu

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, we'll always have Thanksgiving in Sologne Loire Valley

Yes, we will always have Thanksgiving. While only participating in Halloween from time to time I have celebrated Thanksgiving every year since I arrived permanently in France, which was way back in 1988. Don’t know why it is so important for me to celebrate it; I am here in France by choice, I love it, and I don’t envisage moving back to the states.  But, I guess for me, it is family, a time together, to forget about past disputes, talk about future hopes, the comfort of the traditional  meal   and, yes, a two day holiday for us kids.  And, of course, for most American men, it is a weekend of American football and for American women, the sales begin!

When I first arrived I was engaged to Olivier and living with him in a small apartment in Paris.  Olivier knew somehow that Thanksgiving was important to me and, while I had planned nothing, he had researched which Parisian restaurants would be serving Thanksgiving (quite a few restaurants do serve a traditional Thanksgiving dinner, from inexpensive (Joe Allen’s) to very expensive (Paris Ritz).)

While it was all so lovely and tasty, the turkey succulent, it wasn’t at home and it wasn’t with family. So when we moved into our Versailles home I was determined to do a Thanksgiving dinner and for the family, being in this case, French family. A very never- been- to- the- States French family. They had barely heard of Thanksgiving,  thought that American food was a hamburger.  But they came, 
  with trepidation, but they came . 
And, you know what, it was a success, my father-in-law  even commented  to my mother-in-law by that it was the moistest turkey he had ever eaten! That was the start of my annual Thanksgiving dinner. 

From 1990 until 2002 when I sold “Tea and Tattered Pages” we would serve a Thanksgiving lunch in the small tea room behind the bookstore.  And, every year there were more and more French coming, curious to find out what Thanksgiving really meant.

In 2003 with the renovation finally finished at my Bed & Breakfast here in Sologne Loire Valley, I started offering Thanksgiving week ends with the traditional dinner on Saturday night. I thought my clients would be Americans either visiting or living in France.  They do come, but also the Franco-American,  Italian-American couples, and the 100% French couples. It is a wonderful mix of cultures celebrating the only true American holiday.

This year’s Thanksgiving week end will take place the 27, 28, 29 November.  I will talk about it more tomorrow.

Kristi anderson

Bed & Breakfast

Dinner

Saint Jacques le coin perdu

15 place de l’église

45240 Ligny le Ribault

02.38.45.41.54

[email protected]

www.TheAmericanFrog.com

French blog :  http://TheAmericanFrog.typepad.fr/lecoinperdu